Crate training is helpful as a
training tool:
- when a dog must be left unattended for less than
six hours;
- during sleeping hours with a young, un-housebroken dog;
- as feeding
station for easily-distractible puppies.
- it encourages good sleeping
habits and discourages inappropriate elimination.
Crate training has disadvantages:
- it doesn't communicate leadership;
- it separates you from your
dog when you're at home;
- it can't teach a dog how to behave in all rooms
of the house.
A crate can prevent problems, but it provides no real training. Thus,
a crate is a training tool, but by itself, it cannot produce
results.
Size of the crate
Not too large, or your dog or puppy will have enough room to
soil in one corner and sleep in the other. This defeats
the premise of crate
training!
A puppy should be enclosed in the crate no longer than
four hours, because a young dog can't go that amount
of time without
needing
to eliminate.
A crash course on crate training
Crate training builds on the basic 'denning instinct'
in the dog world. A mother dog gives birth to her
puppies in a nest
or 'den'
- a safe
place to sleep. She keeps it clean until the puppies
are old enough to eliminate
outside of the den. She teaches each pup that it
is NOT
acceptable to eliminate where it sleeps. It is
canine instinct not to
soil the area
where they
sleep.
Crate training uses this natural instinct to help
you housetrain your new dog. Here's how it works:
When
you bring your
new dog home, it
is important
to provide it with a nest or 'den' it can have
as its very own safe place. A crate becomes a
punishment only
if you
use it with
that
goal in mind.
If you view a 'crate' as a training tool to help
you reach your goal - which is to housetrain
your dog -
then you
will use the
crate appropriately.
One of the first difficult things about introducing
your dog to a crate is that dogs often whine
or cry when they
are confined
to the
crate.
But you must keep in mind that your dog doesn’t want to be confined.
A puppy may have just left the comfort and warmth of his littermates, and
that comfort and warmth is associated with sleeping. Sadly, unless you
purchased the entire litter for the enjoyment of your puppy, learning to
sleep alone is just part of growing up and is an experience your puppy
must master successfully. Imagine the adult size
your dog will eventually attain, and try to imagine whether
that adult will still fit in your
lap or under the crook of your arm in bed at night. Most
puppies will grow
up to be too large to continue those habits.
At any rate, set the rules from the beginning.
It is kinder to be consistent, than to 'punish'
your
dog
later on and
banish it from
your lap or your
bed for committing the horrible crime of
merely being a dog.
For a puppy, try to get a familiar piece
of bedding from the breeder to place in
your pup's
crate.
If you are
fortunate to have a local
breeder, you can drop off a towel at the
breeders a few days before you pick the
dog up, so the litter can sleep on it and
leave their collective scent.
When first
using the crate, it is important that the crate not have any negative
associations.
For example,
don't
shut the dog
away in
the crate
immediately after it has done something
it shouldn't
have, or has had an 'accident.' Have
the crate ready and comfortable,
with a
toy and
a treat,
and let your dog go in and out on its
own, exploring the crate as it chooses. Don't
shut the dog in
the crate right
away.
Always
praise
the dog for entering
its crate, and choose a word or a phrase
to say when the dog does enter
its crate, so that phrase will be associated
with the behavior. "Go
to your room," "time to take
a nap" and "crate time" all
accomplish the goal of word association.
Do this several times in a row over a short
period of time, and then
stop for a while. Repeat several
times throughout the dog's first day with
you.
Select a 'good' time for the dog's first
time enclosed in the crate. When your
dog enters
the crate in
search of the
treat
it expects
to find there,
and has just been outside to eliminate
and is ready for a nap, it's time to
close the
door.
Many owners
find
this a
good time
to introduce
a new
toy for a dog's enjoyment. Stay with
the dog after you close the door, and
if the
dog cries,
talk
to it and
put your fingers
through
the door
openings. Generally leaving the dog
there 10 minutes or so is a good rule of thumb.
But one word of warning. NEVER let
the dog out because it is crying
or digging
at the
door.
If you do, you
will have
sent
a dangerous
precedent for your dog. What lesson
will you have taught? Misbehave and
you will
get what you want. You must wait
out your dog. That's why it is helpful
if you wait
until
your dog is tired
before
closing
the
crate door
the first few times. It tends to
cut down on the whining. If your dog continues
to
whine and dig, distract him with
a toy or something so that he is quiet
for
half
a
minute or so.
Never let a
crying dog
out
of the
crate, you
are rewarding it! And don't be too
excited when you open the crate door,
or
your dog will get the message that
it's
'fun' to be let out of the crate
(and NOT as much
fun to
be enclosed).
Your approach
to crating
should
be matter of fact.
What if your dog has an accident
in its crate? Don't punish the
dog. Chances
are, your dog
tried to tell
you it had
to go out,
but you
were in the middle
of fixing dinner or in the middle
of a deep sleep and didn't respond.
Crating your dog when you leave
the house
Remove any collar you have on
the dog, because it is unsafe.
Make
sure you
have just taken
the dog
outside
before enclosing
him inside
the
crate. Close the door and leave
without fanfare. Stay away
an hour or so
and return and check on the
dog. If you
cannot find
someone to check in on your
dog while you are at work,
then come
home for
lunch
to feed,
exercise
and take
your dog outside. Remember
puppies cannot be expected to go more
than four hours
without
a potty break.
Once a dog
has
gotten
used to soiling
its
crate, the basic premise of
crate training has been violated and
you will probably
need to find
another
method.
Crating your dog while you
sleep
Remove any collar you have
on the dog, because it is
unsafe. Make
sure you
have just taken
the dog
outside
before enclosing
him inside
the
crate. With all the lights
out,
sounds subsiding and stimulation
next to
nil, your dog should fall
asleep shortly.
Set your alarm for no more
than four hours.
Have your
clothing
ready to put
on
quickly, and reach
in, pick up
the dog, and get outside.
When your dog has been successful,
praise him,
bring
him back
in and
return him to his
crate. Turn
the lights
out and
go back to sleep. Keep lights,
noise and excitement to a
minimum
to allow
your dog
to stay relaxed,
and increase
the
chance
it will go
back to sleep
without fuss.
Dog naptimes
After your dog gets used
to sleeping in its crate
while
you sleep
and while you
are at
work, you
will probably
find that
your dog
returns to its crate
whenever it wants to
nap or have some time on its
own.
Remember
to keep the
crate
door open
so that
your dog
can make the
crate his
own
home,
on his own terms.
Other uses for your dog's
crate
A dog that is crate-trained
is easier to travel
with. If you
fly with your
dog,
it will have
to travel
in a crate.
The noise
and
sensation of flying
is stressful for
animals, and there's no reason
for a dog
to endure the
stress of
being in
a crate for
the first
time while
flying.
If you will
be boarding your
dog at various times, you
will
be providing
early training
for your
dog to cope
with
a few days in
a small enclosure.
If its crate
is comfortable and
considered a haven
by your dog, you
can bring
the
crate to the kennel
and your dog will
have a familiar
bed to sleep
in. And
teaching
your dog to travel
in a car
while being in its
crate is the safest
way to travel
with
your pet.
You won't
have
to worry
about your
dog slipping
out the door when
it opens,
or your dog being
injured if you
stop suddenly
or
thrown out
of the car in
case of an
accident.
Used by permission of Beagle Rescue and Welfare of Northern Virginia, Teresa Livingston
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